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The Boqueria market is a labyrinth of almost 3,000 square meters along which are located more than 200 stalls offering all kinds of products. But the most famous and crowded establishment of all, has been for years, the Pinotxo bar, which was located just in front of the main entrance of the famous market on the Ramblas of Barcelona. Its alma mater was called Joan Bayen (Barcelona, 1934), popularly known as ‘Juanito’. Always with a smile on his lips, he captivated all of us who knew him, but yesterday, Tuesday, April 11, that joy was extinguished when he passed away at the age of 88 due to natural causes in a hospital in Barcelona, three days before the presentation of the book La Boqueria de Juanito, (Genco publishing house) a tribute to his figure and the history of his bar. The presentation was going to be made in the market and, for now, it is stopped waiting to know the decisions taken by the family.
More than seven decades at the helm of Pinotxo
But who was this charismatic man who appeared in all the tourist guides around the world that spoke of the Catalan capital, and who ran until December 2022 the legendary bar that he had transferred to another businessman of La Boqueria, owner of several businesses on La Rambla? His story is that of La Boqueria. When he was just 7 years old, he joined the family business, a modest restaurant run by his mother, Catalina, and his sister Maria, on the other corner of the market from La Garduña restaurant, which offered the best veal stews in the market. Juanito’ would help them after school, handing out lattes and sandwiches to the stalls, and a few years later he would be behind the bar.
In these years they changed location four times until they settled definitively in the place they had occupied until now. The customers saw him grow up next to his beloved pet, a dog named Pinotxo. Bayen, explained to me a few years ago how the name Pinotxo came about: “A fishmonger from the Boqueria, a family friend, gave me a dog the same year that the Walt Disney movie Pinotxo was released, and as I really liked that character, I thought it would be a nice name for my pet”. From then on, people started to say: “Let’s go to the bar where they have such a nice dog called Pinotxo”.
At the bottom of the barrel
Always behind the bar, Bayen was characterized by wearing a striking vest (he had 12) matching his bow tie. And the sense of humor was never lacking in this beloved character of the Boqueria market who, every day he got up at 4:00 in the morning, and at 6:00 he would punctually raise the shutter of the business. All Pinotxo’s products were of high quality and fresh from the day. They had an abundant variety of tapas and exquisite local dishes. The chickpeas with blood sausage or with vegetables, the sautéed baby squid with Santa Pau beans, the monkfish with vermouth, its “cap i pota”, the lamb ribs in batter or its cod esqueixada, were unbeatable and finger-licking good.
The Stones and top chefs among its customers
The Pinotxo bar, a gastronomic institution in La Boqueria, was a place frequented by politicians, businessmen, actors, writers, musicians. “Look, a few years ago, something very curious happened to me. One morning, two customers came in looking like beggars and asked for several things to eat. Two minutes later, a very nervous girl from the market came and told me: ‘Juanito, those two are from the Rolling Stones! People started to come… you can’t imagine how she got! When they saw themselves recognized, they paid and left”.
But Pinotxo was also a must for the great chefs of Spanish cuisine, and with all of them, ‘Juanito’ had a very special bond for years: To Juan Mari Arzak, he considered him a great person for his way of being and for all of him in general; about Ferran Adriá, of whom he had been a great friend for years, he thought he was the greatest; of the Roca brothers, he thought they were very nice people and a sensational family, and to whom nothing has gone up in fame; and about Carles Gaig, that he was unique.
Olympic Torchbearer
Juanito’ combined catering with another passion: sports. He ran the first 18 marathons in Barcelona and New York, and was even one of those in charge of carrying the 1992 Olympic torch from Colón to Plaza Cataluña. He was also recognized in February 2015 by the City Council of Barcelona with the Barcelona Gastronomy Award in recognition of the dedication, love and sympathy he offered daily in his emblematic bar.
La Boqueria will pay tribute to its most illustrious character
Jordi Mas, president of the Board of Traders of the Boqueria Market, recalled the image of Bayen and how attached he was to Barcelona. Juanito’ has been our influencer of the 21st century. The leader and example of the market, because he symbolized the greatness of the Boqueria, and was always with a smile. Pinotxo – continues Mas – there has only been one, and we would have liked to have him always”. In the coming days, the Boqueria Market will pay tribute to the figure of its best ambassador.
Juanito’, those of us who have known and admired you, will always remember you. R.I.P.